A Dog's Menstrual (Heat) Cycle :
While dogs may seem to have a menstrual cycle that is very similar to a woman’s menstrual cycle, dogs do not experience an actual menstrual cycle. Primates are the only mammals that have a true menstrual cycle. Instead, dogs have what is called an estrus cycle, and the estrus cycle has its own unique phases and cycles.
Introduction :
While dogs may seem to have a menstrual cycle that is very similar to a woman’s menstrual cycle, dogs do not experience an actual menstrual cycle. Instead, dogs have what is called an Estrus Cycle (or Heat Cycle), and the estrus cycle has its own unique phases. Sexually mature female dogs will go through a heat cycle once, or more commonly, twice a year.
Each cycle consists of four stages:
1) Proestrus
2) Estrus
3) Diestrus
4) Anestrus.
1) Proestrus :
The first phase of the estrus cycle begins with proestrus and lasts approximately 9 days. The dog’s vaginal area becomes swollen and excretes a bloody discharge during this phase. This is also the phase that is often confused with a menstrual cycle. During this phase the dog’s body prepares itself for a possible pregnancy, but the female will not accept the male at this time.
vaginal discharge, males attracted to females, females unwilling to mate. Length: 4-20 days.
2) Estrus :
The estrus cycle of a dog can take 6 – 8 months from start to finish, but some breeds of dogs have a cycle which lasts one year. How long, or short, a dog’s estrus cycle is depends on the dogs age, health status, and breed. A dog’s estrus cycle will continue for most of the dog’s life because, unlike primates, dogs do not go into a menopausal phase when they grow older. Instead, the length of the estrus cycle gradually increases as a dog ages.
The second estrus phase also lasts approximately 9 days and this phase is called estrus. During this phase the female ovulates, and she will readily accept a male.
swollen vulva, yellowish vaginal discharge, mating occurs during this phase. Length: 5-13 days.
3) Diestrus :
The third phase of the estrus cycle is called diestrus, and this phase can last between 70-80 days. The diestrus phase will begin regardless of whether the female dog becomes pregnant or not. During this phase the dog’s body is ‘hormonally pregnant’, and this phase may also appear as a false pregnancy. Female dogs that are not pregnant may begin to ‘mother’ other animals or toys at this time, and they will not accept a male.
period after estrus or mating. Length: 60-90 days. If pregnant, pregnancy lasts between 60-64 days in the dog.
4) Anestrus :
Anestrus is the last estrus phase. This phase can last for 130 days, and during this phase the females will not accept a male. This is a ‘resting’ phase where the dog’s body repairs itself and starts to ready itself for another estrus cycle.
period of inactivity (sexual and hormonal) between estrus phases. Length: 2-3 months.
Some general "rules of thumb" for canine estrus:
Spaying While In Heat :
During a heat cycle, the blood vessels that supply the ovaries and uterus are engorged. Additionally these tissues are more "friable" (may tear more easily than normal) and bleed more. Even tissue not associated with the reproductive organs - skin, fat, muscle - often seep more than normal during surgery.
This often makes a typically elective surgery more stressful than it needs to be, and carries additional risk of bleeding problems during the surgery or post-operatively. Some veterinarians will not spay a pet in heat and recommend that surgery be scheduled a week or two after the cycle ends.
Sometimes the answer is "maybe." Sometimes veterinarians are selective about the type of pet that they will spay while in heat. Generally speaking: Cat in-heat spays are easier than dog in-heat spays. Small dogs are easier than large dogs. Overweight pets are difficult to spay both in heat and not in heat. Anesthesia is riskier too. One more reason to make sure your pet is not overweight.
Additional Costs When Spaying a Pet in Heat :
If a pet is spayed while in heat, the surgery takes a little longer and additional surgical supplies such as gauze sponges and suture may be needed. Fluids during surgery are standard for many practices and are built in to the surgery cost. For some practices, this may be an additional cost for an in-heat spay. (IV fluids during surgery always a good idea in my opinion.)
Planning Ahead :
Dogs and cat are typically spayed at six months of age. If spayed before the first heat cycle (which happens around 6 months), the chances of mammary cancer are greatly reduced (96%). Spaying at any age eliminates the chance of ovarian and uterine cancers, as they are removed during a typical spay. Some animals, especially those at shelters, are spayed and neutered at much younger ages.
The "best" age to spay and neuter is a topic of much debate. Speak to your veterinarian about your specific pet (dog, cat, breed, etc.) for advice on age to spay. Most people will agree that it is best to avoid spaying when in heat if possible.
Sometimes an appointment is made in advance or an animal is found, rescued, etc. and the estrus status is not known when the surgery is scheduled. If this is the case, speak to your veterinarian about possible risks and added costs of spaying while in heat.
Medical Checks before Breeding :
You must make sure the bitch and the stud both are free from brucellosis before breeding them. Brucellosis causes eventual sterility in both sexes (sometimes non-obviously) and can cause a litter of puppies to be aborted or die shortly after birth. In addition, brucellosis is on occasion transmissible to humans via the urine or feces of an affected dog. Between dogs, it is most commonly passed in sexual intercourse, although an entire kennel can be infected through contact with secretions. The sire should be in excellent general health. The dam must be in good health, to withstand the stresses and rigors of a pregnancy. They must both be up to date on their vaccinations.
Temperament :
Never breed any animal that has temperament problems. In particular, this has been the cause of the degeneration of many breed's general temperament: Doberman Pinschers, Rottweilers, and so on. If your animal is untrustworthy around people, overly aggressive to people, excitable, or is a fear-biter, do not breed it. If it is shy or submissive, don't breed it. Look for happy, confident and obedient animals, and consider carefully the particular temperament requirements for your dog's breed.
There are a variety of tests to indicate a dog's temperament. Many of the working breeds have a temperament test (for example, the Doberman's WAC test) for their breed. AKC has a Canine Good Citizen test (open to all dogs) that gives some indication of the dog's temperament (and, yes, training). Therapy Dogs International and other Therapy Dog clubs have temperament testing that does try to separate out actual temperament from training. Obedience titles can be (but are not necessarily) an indication of good temperament.
Pedigree Research
You must carefully consider each dog's pedigree for compatibility. Try to select strengths to offset weaknesses. Do not allow your bitch to be bred to an unsuitable dog, and conversely, be picky about the bitches you allow your dog to breed. This phase alone requires considerable research to find a suitable candidate, and you should definitely work closely with a knowledgeable person, ideally the breeder of your dog.
Simply because two dogs "look good" or even *are* good does not mean that they necessarily complement each other: suppose they are both carriers for the same disease? Suppose they both have a tendency to overbites or other disqualifying faults? Be honest with yourself. If your dog is not a good representation of its breed, do not let it reproduce. It is much easier to improve a few faults than to try and get excellent pups with a mediocre dog. Check the breed standard for your dog and ask a knowledgeable person for their evaluation of your dog.
Frequency of Breeding :
Ideally, a bitch should only be bred every other year and she should not be bred much before two years of age. The season closest to the second birthday is a good one to start with; certainly no earlier than this. In some breeds, you may need to wait one more season before beginning. By this time, she is better prepared mentally for having puppies than she would have been with her first few seasons. Her physical growth is complete and pregnancy at this point won't endanger her health, provided that she is healthy to begin with. In breeds with Hip Dysplasia, many people wait until after two years of age so that the parents can be certified; however if you have sent in xrays to OFA for preliminary evaluation and they came back as fine, many breeders consider it safe enough to then breed on the season closest to the second year, which can wind up being before the bitch is actually old enough to be certified. (And when the bitch is old enough, she is, of course, duly certified.) But the preliminary xrays must be examined by OFA, not by a local veterinarian. There are many dysplastic dogs out there that had vets look at their xrays and pronounce them "wonderful."
It's important, however, to keep the frequency of breeding low. Even at maximum, you want to allow at least one unbred season between breedings. This allows your bitch to rest and regain her strength. A bitch that whelps too often will produce weaker puppies more likely to die, and the repeated pregnancies are pretty rough on her, too.
For dogs, they should definitely have all their certifications necessary. For many breeds this means that they should be over two years old. Since a dog can be bred at any time, unlike bitches, waiting for two years is not a problem, whereas a bitch often has a season just before two years of age and then has to wait until 2.5 or three which sometimes presents problems in trying to time her litters. But this does not apply to a stud dog, so he should definitely have all of his checks and certifications before being bred. Frequency is not generally a problem although some dogs have problems with sperm production if they breed once a day for several days. They need top-quality feeding and care if they are going to be bred often.
Care of the Pregnant or Nursing Bitch :
You should make sure the bitch is up-to-date on all her vaccinations, medications, and shots before she is bred. She will require supplementary food during the last three weeks or so of pregnancy. In general, puppy food is formulated both for puppies and pregnant or nursing bitches. She should be under the care of a vet for any related problems. Dogs can have miscarriages. Illnesses, diseases, or infestations that the bitch picks up during her pregnancy can affect the puppies. Difficulties during whelping are entirely possible, and the rule for some breeds. You must be prepared to get her to the vet quickly in an emergency.
There are instances of "mummy puppies" where you have a puppy whose development went awry, but it was not aborted. Instead, it dries and shrivels up, and when born, looks like a mummified puppy, blackened and ready to rot. Overbreeding and inadequate care are usually the causes. It is quite likely that the dam will come down with an infected uterus after such a puppy. "Water puppies" are another type of problem in which the dead puppy appears to have never properly developed a skeleton and appears to be full of gelatin. This seems to be linked to a viral exposure.
Other congenital (but not genetic) defects can include: no anus, cleft palates and hare lips. These conditions require corrective surgery or the puppy will die.
While the bitch is nursing the puppies, she will require about three times the amount of food she normally eats! It is also common for nursing mothers to go out of coat at this time.
Placing the puppies :
After the puppies are born, if not before, you must consider placing your puppies. Time and time again, people breed a litter because friends and family want one of their dog's puppies -- and then none of them will take one. At six weeks is when even seasoned breeders wonder why they do this. A healthy active litter of six will run you ragged at this age. They are so curious, they want to explore everywhere, and they are at the prime age for socialization and exposure to many things that you, as a responsible breeder, want to give them a head start on.
At eight weeks, you may begin placing those pups that are ready to go to their new homes. Insecure pups may need more time, how are those puppy tests coming? You can't place puppies earlier than 7.5 weeks or so (no matter how much you may want to).
Are you prepared to do some legwork to find GOOD homes for them, not just hand them off to the first person who comes by? You are aware that you won't always be able to sell all of your puppies locally, aren't you? What assurances do you have that the puppies will not wind up filling animal shelters, facing death because their parents were thoughtlessly bred? Suppose you wind up keeping more of the litter than you intended to? Suppose some of your puppies are returned? Can you keep the extra puppies?
Introduction :
While dogs may seem to have a menstrual cycle that is very similar to a woman’s menstrual cycle, dogs do not experience an actual menstrual cycle. Instead, dogs have what is called an Estrus Cycle (or Heat Cycle), and the estrus cycle has its own unique phases. Sexually mature female dogs will go through a heat cycle once, or more commonly, twice a year.
Each cycle consists of four stages:
1) Proestrus
2) Estrus
3) Diestrus
4) Anestrus.
1) Proestrus :
The first phase of the estrus cycle begins with proestrus and lasts approximately 9 days. The dog’s vaginal area becomes swollen and excretes a bloody discharge during this phase. This is also the phase that is often confused with a menstrual cycle. During this phase the dog’s body prepares itself for a possible pregnancy, but the female will not accept the male at this time.
vaginal discharge, males attracted to females, females unwilling to mate. Length: 4-20 days.
2) Estrus :
The estrus cycle of a dog can take 6 – 8 months from start to finish, but some breeds of dogs have a cycle which lasts one year. How long, or short, a dog’s estrus cycle is depends on the dogs age, health status, and breed. A dog’s estrus cycle will continue for most of the dog’s life because, unlike primates, dogs do not go into a menopausal phase when they grow older. Instead, the length of the estrus cycle gradually increases as a dog ages.
The second estrus phase also lasts approximately 9 days and this phase is called estrus. During this phase the female ovulates, and she will readily accept a male.
swollen vulva, yellowish vaginal discharge, mating occurs during this phase. Length: 5-13 days.
3) Diestrus :
The third phase of the estrus cycle is called diestrus, and this phase can last between 70-80 days. The diestrus phase will begin regardless of whether the female dog becomes pregnant or not. During this phase the dog’s body is ‘hormonally pregnant’, and this phase may also appear as a false pregnancy. Female dogs that are not pregnant may begin to ‘mother’ other animals or toys at this time, and they will not accept a male.
period after estrus or mating. Length: 60-90 days. If pregnant, pregnancy lasts between 60-64 days in the dog.
4) Anestrus :
Anestrus is the last estrus phase. This phase can last for 130 days, and during this phase the females will not accept a male. This is a ‘resting’ phase where the dog’s body repairs itself and starts to ready itself for another estrus cycle.
period of inactivity (sexual and hormonal) between estrus phases. Length: 2-3 months.
Some general "rules of thumb" for canine estrus:
- The first estrus cycle usually occurs by age 6-12 months; for some small breeds, as early as 5 months, and for some large and giant breeds, the first cycle may not occur until 14 months of age or older.
- On average, dogs have two cycles a year.
- The estrus cycle lasts on average 12-21 days, but maybe be as short as a few days to four weeks. The estrus period length varies widely between breeds and individual dogs.
- The length of a cycle varies widely, even for dogs of the same breed. If in doubt, assume the longer end of the range for the cycle length.
- Bleeding occurs prior to a female being receptive to a male (allowing mounting by the male), but male dogs will be very attracted to the female in the proestrus stage.
- Dogs can get pregnant during their first heat cycle, but this is not advisable as a 6-month old dog is not yet fully grown/mature, and complications for the mother and the puppies are more likely.
Spaying While In Heat :
During a heat cycle, the blood vessels that supply the ovaries and uterus are engorged. Additionally these tissues are more "friable" (may tear more easily than normal) and bleed more. Even tissue not associated with the reproductive organs - skin, fat, muscle - often seep more than normal during surgery.
This often makes a typically elective surgery more stressful than it needs to be, and carries additional risk of bleeding problems during the surgery or post-operatively. Some veterinarians will not spay a pet in heat and recommend that surgery be scheduled a week or two after the cycle ends.
Sometimes the answer is "maybe." Sometimes veterinarians are selective about the type of pet that they will spay while in heat. Generally speaking: Cat in-heat spays are easier than dog in-heat spays. Small dogs are easier than large dogs. Overweight pets are difficult to spay both in heat and not in heat. Anesthesia is riskier too. One more reason to make sure your pet is not overweight.
Additional Costs When Spaying a Pet in Heat :
If a pet is spayed while in heat, the surgery takes a little longer and additional surgical supplies such as gauze sponges and suture may be needed. Fluids during surgery are standard for many practices and are built in to the surgery cost. For some practices, this may be an additional cost for an in-heat spay. (IV fluids during surgery always a good idea in my opinion.)
Planning Ahead :
Dogs and cat are typically spayed at six months of age. If spayed before the first heat cycle (which happens around 6 months), the chances of mammary cancer are greatly reduced (96%). Spaying at any age eliminates the chance of ovarian and uterine cancers, as they are removed during a typical spay. Some animals, especially those at shelters, are spayed and neutered at much younger ages.
The "best" age to spay and neuter is a topic of much debate. Speak to your veterinarian about your specific pet (dog, cat, breed, etc.) for advice on age to spay. Most people will agree that it is best to avoid spaying when in heat if possible.
Sometimes an appointment is made in advance or an animal is found, rescued, etc. and the estrus status is not known when the surgery is scheduled. If this is the case, speak to your veterinarian about possible risks and added costs of spaying while in heat.
Medical Checks before Breeding :
You must make sure the bitch and the stud both are free from brucellosis before breeding them. Brucellosis causes eventual sterility in both sexes (sometimes non-obviously) and can cause a litter of puppies to be aborted or die shortly after birth. In addition, brucellosis is on occasion transmissible to humans via the urine or feces of an affected dog. Between dogs, it is most commonly passed in sexual intercourse, although an entire kennel can be infected through contact with secretions. The sire should be in excellent general health. The dam must be in good health, to withstand the stresses and rigors of a pregnancy. They must both be up to date on their vaccinations.
Temperament :
Never breed any animal that has temperament problems. In particular, this has been the cause of the degeneration of many breed's general temperament: Doberman Pinschers, Rottweilers, and so on. If your animal is untrustworthy around people, overly aggressive to people, excitable, or is a fear-biter, do not breed it. If it is shy or submissive, don't breed it. Look for happy, confident and obedient animals, and consider carefully the particular temperament requirements for your dog's breed.
There are a variety of tests to indicate a dog's temperament. Many of the working breeds have a temperament test (for example, the Doberman's WAC test) for their breed. AKC has a Canine Good Citizen test (open to all dogs) that gives some indication of the dog's temperament (and, yes, training). Therapy Dogs International and other Therapy Dog clubs have temperament testing that does try to separate out actual temperament from training. Obedience titles can be (but are not necessarily) an indication of good temperament.
Pedigree Research
You must carefully consider each dog's pedigree for compatibility. Try to select strengths to offset weaknesses. Do not allow your bitch to be bred to an unsuitable dog, and conversely, be picky about the bitches you allow your dog to breed. This phase alone requires considerable research to find a suitable candidate, and you should definitely work closely with a knowledgeable person, ideally the breeder of your dog.
Simply because two dogs "look good" or even *are* good does not mean that they necessarily complement each other: suppose they are both carriers for the same disease? Suppose they both have a tendency to overbites or other disqualifying faults? Be honest with yourself. If your dog is not a good representation of its breed, do not let it reproduce. It is much easier to improve a few faults than to try and get excellent pups with a mediocre dog. Check the breed standard for your dog and ask a knowledgeable person for their evaluation of your dog.
Frequency of Breeding :
Ideally, a bitch should only be bred every other year and she should not be bred much before two years of age. The season closest to the second birthday is a good one to start with; certainly no earlier than this. In some breeds, you may need to wait one more season before beginning. By this time, she is better prepared mentally for having puppies than she would have been with her first few seasons. Her physical growth is complete and pregnancy at this point won't endanger her health, provided that she is healthy to begin with. In breeds with Hip Dysplasia, many people wait until after two years of age so that the parents can be certified; however if you have sent in xrays to OFA for preliminary evaluation and they came back as fine, many breeders consider it safe enough to then breed on the season closest to the second year, which can wind up being before the bitch is actually old enough to be certified. (And when the bitch is old enough, she is, of course, duly certified.) But the preliminary xrays must be examined by OFA, not by a local veterinarian. There are many dysplastic dogs out there that had vets look at their xrays and pronounce them "wonderful."
It's important, however, to keep the frequency of breeding low. Even at maximum, you want to allow at least one unbred season between breedings. This allows your bitch to rest and regain her strength. A bitch that whelps too often will produce weaker puppies more likely to die, and the repeated pregnancies are pretty rough on her, too.
For dogs, they should definitely have all their certifications necessary. For many breeds this means that they should be over two years old. Since a dog can be bred at any time, unlike bitches, waiting for two years is not a problem, whereas a bitch often has a season just before two years of age and then has to wait until 2.5 or three which sometimes presents problems in trying to time her litters. But this does not apply to a stud dog, so he should definitely have all of his checks and certifications before being bred. Frequency is not generally a problem although some dogs have problems with sperm production if they breed once a day for several days. They need top-quality feeding and care if they are going to be bred often.
Care of the Pregnant or Nursing Bitch :
You should make sure the bitch is up-to-date on all her vaccinations, medications, and shots before she is bred. She will require supplementary food during the last three weeks or so of pregnancy. In general, puppy food is formulated both for puppies and pregnant or nursing bitches. She should be under the care of a vet for any related problems. Dogs can have miscarriages. Illnesses, diseases, or infestations that the bitch picks up during her pregnancy can affect the puppies. Difficulties during whelping are entirely possible, and the rule for some breeds. You must be prepared to get her to the vet quickly in an emergency.
There are instances of "mummy puppies" where you have a puppy whose development went awry, but it was not aborted. Instead, it dries and shrivels up, and when born, looks like a mummified puppy, blackened and ready to rot. Overbreeding and inadequate care are usually the causes. It is quite likely that the dam will come down with an infected uterus after such a puppy. "Water puppies" are another type of problem in which the dead puppy appears to have never properly developed a skeleton and appears to be full of gelatin. This seems to be linked to a viral exposure.
Other congenital (but not genetic) defects can include: no anus, cleft palates and hare lips. These conditions require corrective surgery or the puppy will die.
While the bitch is nursing the puppies, she will require about three times the amount of food she normally eats! It is also common for nursing mothers to go out of coat at this time.
Placing the puppies :
After the puppies are born, if not before, you must consider placing your puppies. Time and time again, people breed a litter because friends and family want one of their dog's puppies -- and then none of them will take one. At six weeks is when even seasoned breeders wonder why they do this. A healthy active litter of six will run you ragged at this age. They are so curious, they want to explore everywhere, and they are at the prime age for socialization and exposure to many things that you, as a responsible breeder, want to give them a head start on.
At eight weeks, you may begin placing those pups that are ready to go to their new homes. Insecure pups may need more time, how are those puppy tests coming? You can't place puppies earlier than 7.5 weeks or so (no matter how much you may want to).
Are you prepared to do some legwork to find GOOD homes for them, not just hand them off to the first person who comes by? You are aware that you won't always be able to sell all of your puppies locally, aren't you? What assurances do you have that the puppies will not wind up filling animal shelters, facing death because their parents were thoughtlessly bred? Suppose you wind up keeping more of the litter than you intended to? Suppose some of your puppies are returned? Can you keep the extra puppies?